BiochemiaUrody - Strona Barbary Kwiatkowskiej (TYLKO-DO-ODCZYTU)

BasiaKwiatkowska

Basia
Site Admin Wysłany: 18 Mar 2005 06:23 pm Temat postu: Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15

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BasiaKwiatkowska

Opracowanie nawiazujace do [link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
Opracowala - Barbara Kwiatkowska, 2006
Konsultacja - Dr. Baumann

Sun protection is important in all 4 parameters: Dry vs. Oily, Sensitive vs. Resistant, Pigmented vs. No-pigmented, Wrinkled vs. Tight and for all 16 skin types. Regardless of your skin type, using sunscreens is just a must. Make it a habit to apply sunscreen every morning, every day whether you plan to be indoors or out, whether it is winter or summer. Remember, UVA rays easily penetrates windows and are mainly responsible for pigmentation, so even if you are inside a building, a car or in a plane you can still get sun spots or worsen your melasma.
If you do not avoid the sun and practice protective measures, you are wasting your time on cosmetic products and procedures!

Pigmented (P) vs. Non-pigmented (N); Wrinkled (W) vs. Tight (T) skin type
This is especially important for people who fight with pigmentation problem, type P. But even if you are non-pigmented (N) type you still need sunscreen, because using them you can avoid wrinkles. You can be Tight (T) type by nature, but without everyday with sunscreen you can by choice become Wrinkled (W) type. W/P’s should think about sunscreens not only as skincare and beauty perspective, but also as about OTC product which can help prevent skin cancer incident.

Dry - Sensitive D/S
Sun exposure worsens dry skin. Those with a history of frequent sun exposure tend to have drier skin. Dry type is one of the most vulnerable to sun-induced aging called photoaging.
Avoiding ultraviolet exposure would give you the instant gratification of smoother more hydrated skin but more importantly would serve to protect you long term from photoaging and skin cancer. The UV rays inhibit skin enzymes that produce Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), and thus damage your skin’s ability to hold on to water. That’s why sun exposure makes skin more dry and flaky. Sun exposure also decreases the skin’s hyaluronic acid (HA) content. HA is responsible for drawing water into the skin making it plump, hydrate and giving it volume.
Dry (D) type has more option to choose, because sunscreens are mostly rich, moisturizing and emollient. For you cream sunscreens are good option as they give your skin extra moisture.
However, as a Sensitive (S) type sometimes you can react to chemical sunscreen ingredients like benzophenones, avobenzone with rush and sensitivity, in that case look for all physical sunscreen.

All physical/mineral sunscreens plus some exceptions for D/S:

- Andrew Lessman – Sole Sunscreen SPF 20 [Active ingredients: ZnO 15.52%]
- Applied Therapeutics - Sensitive Skin Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion SPF 25 [Active ingredients: ZnO (Z-Cote) 9.7% and TiO2 (T-Cote) 3.9%]
- Avene – Tinted Extreme Compact SPF 50 [Active ingredients: ZnO 6.8% and TiO2 15%] (available at CVS) – as a tinted is good for darker skin
- Avene – Tinted Extreme Sunscreen Cream SPF 50 [Active ingredients: ZnO 2.4% and TiO2 11%] (available at CVS) – as a tinted is good for darker skin
- Avene – Tinted Sunscreen Lotion SPF 25 [Active ingredients: ZnO 1.5% and TiO2 17%] (available at CVS) – as a tinted is good for darker skin
- Baby Lizard SPF 30+ [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Blue Lizard SPF 30+ [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Clarins- Sun Care Cream Very High Protection for Children SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 3% ZnO and 15.2% TiO2]
- Clinique – Derma White Super City Block SPF 40 [Active ingredients: 11.6% ZnO and 7.3% TiO2]
- Jane Iredale- Pure Pressed Powder SPF 18 [Active ingredients: 3% ZnO, 14% TiO2] – good as touch ups during a day, but contain bismuth so allergics be aware!
- June Jacobs - Micronized Sheer SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]
- Linda Sy – Zinc O SPF 20 [Active ingredients: 14.5% ZnO]
- Mustela – Moderate Protection Lotion SPF 25 [Active ingredients: 6% ZnO and 9.8% TiO2]
- Mustela – Very High Protection Lotion SPF 50 [Active ingredients: 7% ZnO and 14.4% TiO2]
- Neutrogena – Healthy Defence Daily Eye Cream SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO]
- Neutrogena – Healthy Defense Protective Powder SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 8.9 % TiO2]
- Obagi – Nu-Derm Physical UV Block SPF 32 [Active ingredients: 18.5% ZnO]
- Olay – Complete Defense Daily UV Moisturizer SPF 30, Sensitive skin [Active ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 6.0%, Octisalate 2.5%, Octocrylene 2.5%]
- Paula’s Choice – Pure Mineral Sunscreen SPF 15 30 [Active ingredients: 2.19% ZnO, 6.36% TiO2]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 12% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Ultra Lite Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 6.5% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]
- Skinceuticals - Physical UV Defense SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 5% ZnO and 10% TiO2]
- Skinceuticals - Ultimate UV Defense SPF30 [Active ingredients: octyl methoxycinnamate (encapsulated), zinc oxide (Z-cote) 7%]
- Vanicream SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 5% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Vanicream SPF 60 [Active ingredients: 7.5% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]

Oily-Sensitive O/S

People with oily skin type that is the most vulnerable to acne, mistakenly believe that sun exposure will treat their acne; however, studies have suggested that this is not true, it is only temporary effect. In fact, one study showed that acne worsens in summer, because UV exposure clogs pores and aggravates comedones.
Oily (O) types usually don’t like to wear sunscreen, because of their rich and very often sticky and greasy formula. They complain that sunscreen actually making their skin oilier and worsen their acne. But studies show the vehicles, rather than UV- filters seemed to be responsible. The UV filters themselves were found to be noncomedogenic.[1]
Non-comedogenic gel, powder or lotion sunscreens are beneficial in OS types with acne.
Because you are Sensitive (S), some chemical UV filters (like PABA, benzophenone, avobenzone) can irritate your skin, leading to acne flare-ups. In such cases, you need to choose physical blocking sunscreens with micronized zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. OSW (oily, sensitive and wrinkled) types with a strong history of sun damage are the most likely to suffer from rosacea. In your cases, facial powder sunscreen or tinted sunscreens used as additive to regular sunscreen can help mask the redness while providing more sun protection.

All physical/mineral sunscreens plus some exceptions for O/S:

- Applied Therapeutics - Sensitive Skin Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion SPF 25 [Active ingredients: ZnO (Z-Cote) 9.7% and TiO2 (T-Cote) 3.9%]
- Avene – Tinted Extreme Compact SPF 50 [Active ingredients: ZnO 6.8% and TiO2 15%]
- Baby Lizard SPF 30+ [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Blue Lizard SPF 30+ [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Clinique – Derma White Super City Block SPF 40 [Active ingredients: 11.6% ZnO and 7.3% TiO2]
- DHC – White Sunscreen SPF 25 [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Epicuren - Zinc Block SPF 20 [Active ingredients: 19% ZnO]
- Fallene - COTZ SPF 58 [Active ingredients: 4% ZnO and 10% TiO2, 5% Iron Oxide]
- Fancl - Sunguard SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 14% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Jane Iredale- Pure Pressed Powder SPF 18 [Active ingredients: 3% ZnO, 14% TiO2]
- June Jacobs - Micronized Sheer SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]
- Obagi – Nu-Derm Physical UV Block SPF 32 [Active ingredients: 18.5% ZnO]
- Olay – Complete Defense Daily UV Moisturizer SPF 30, Sensitive skin [Active ingredients: Octinoxate 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 6.0%, Octisalate 2.5%, Octocrylene 2.5%]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 12% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Ultra Lite Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 6.5% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]
- Shiseido – Ultimate Sun Protection Cream SPF 55 [Active ingredients: 7.4% octinoxate, 13.9% ZnO]
- Shiseido – Ultimate Sun Protection Powder SPF 34 [Active ingredients: octinoxate, ZnO, TiO2]
- Skinceuticals - Physical UV Defense SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 5% ZnO and 10% TiO2]
- Skinceuticals - Ultimate UV Defense SPF30 [Active ingredients: octyl methoxycinnamate, zinc oxide (Z-cote) 7%]
- Topix – Glycolix Elite Sunscreen SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 17% ZnO]

Dry – Resistant D/R

There is no exception, even with resistant skin type you still need to wear a sunscreen every day. Remember that sun can worsen your dry skin condition and in consequence of disrupting skin barrier even makes you more sensitive. Fortunately for you, as a Resistant (R) type there are no sunscreen ingredients you need to avoid.
Look for cream or lotion sunscreens. If your skin around eye is more sensitive, you can use there physical sunscreen.

Chemical/physical sunscreen for D/R (For list of physical sunscreen look into recommendation for D/S.)

- AMBI – Even&Clear UV Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0% Homosalate 12.0%, Octisalate 5.0% Octocrylene 1.7%, Oxybenzone 3.0%] – good for DRP because of lightening ingredients
- Aveeno – Face Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.4% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 5% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Aveeno – Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 (in contrast to SPF 15 version this new one is photostable) [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3%; Homosalate 12%; Octisalate 5%; Octocrylene 1.7%; Oxybenzone 3%] - good for DRP because of lightening ingredients
- Aveeno – Sunblock Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.35% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 5% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Aveeno – Sunblock Lotion SPF 45 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.4% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 6% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Biomedic – Facial Shield SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 5%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 10%, Oxybenzone 6%]
- Clinique – Derma White Super City Block SPF 40 [Active ingredients: 11.6% ZnO and 7.3% TiO2]
- Clinique – Super City Block oil-free Daily protector SPF 40 [Active ingredients: zinc oxide 8.8%, octyl methoxycinnamate 7.5%, titanium dioxide 6.6% and octyl salicylate 2%]
- Coppertone – Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 7% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 4% Oxybenzone, 13% homosalate]
- Cetaphil Daily Facial Moisturizer SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 10% octocrylene, 3% avobenzone]
- Hawaiian Tropic – Baby Faces & Tender Places SPF 60 Lotion [Active ingredients: Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Avobenzone (Parsol 1789)]
- Hawaiian Tropic – Oil free Faces SPF 30 [Active gredients: Homosalate 10%, Oxybenzone 5%, Octisalate 5%, Avobenzone 2% and Octocrylene 1.6%]
- Hawaiian Tropic – Ozone SPF 70 Lotion [Active ingredients: Octocrylene, Oxybenzone, Avobenzone (Parsol 1789)]
- Kiehl’s – Vital Sun Lotion and Spray SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- Kiehl’s – Vital Sun Protection Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 6% oxybenzone, 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- Kiehl’s – Vital Sun Protection Lotion SPF 40 [Active ingredients: 7.5% ocinoxate, 6% oxybenzone, 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- Kiehl’s – Vital Sun Protection Spray SPF 25 [Active ingredients: 6% oxybenzone, 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- La Roche-Posay – Anthelios SX [Active ingredients: 2% ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), 2% Avobenzone, 10% octocrylene]
- Lancome – Bienfait Multi-Vital SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 7% octocrylene]
- Lumene - Sun Defence Protective Sun Care Lotion SPF 30 or 45 [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0%; Octinoxate 7.5%; Octisalate 5.0%; Octocrylene 2.7%; Oxybenzone 6.0%] (available at CVS)
- Lumene - Age defying Sun Care Cream SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0%; Octinoxate 7.5%; Octisalate 5.0%; Octocrylene 2.7%; Oxybenzone 6.0%] (available at CVS)
- Neutrogena – Age Shield Sunblock SPF 30 and SPF 45 with [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.35% Octocrylene, 4% Octyl Salicylate, 5% Oxybenzone, 8% homosalate]
- NO-AD - Maximum Sunblock Lotion SPF 45 [Active ingredients: 2% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 1.95% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 6% Oxybenzone, 15% Homosalate]
- Ocean Potion - Anti-Aging Sun Block SPF 50 [Active Ingredients: Homosalate - 10%, Octisalate - 5%, Oxybenzone - 5%, Octocrylene - 2%, Avobenzone - 2%]
- Olay – Age-defying Anti-Wrinkle SPF 15 [Active ingredients: Octisalate, Avobenzone, Ensulizone, Octocrylene]
- Olay – Complete Defense UV Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Homosalate 8.0%, Avobenzone 3.0%, Octocrylene 2.25%, Ensulizole 2.0%]
- Olay – Multi- Radiance UV lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Octisalate 4%, Avobenzone 2%, Ensulizole 1%, Octocrylene 1%]
- Olay – Regenerist UV Lotion SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 4% Octisalate, 2% Avobenzone, 1% Ensulizole, 1.25% Octocrylene]
- Olay – Total Effects Moisturizing Lotion SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 4% Octyl Salicylate, 2% Avobenzone, 1% Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, 1% Octocrylene]
- Olay – Touch of Sun UV Facial Moisturizer with sunless tanner SPF 15 [Active ingredients: Octocrylene 8%, Octisalate 4%, Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 2%]
- Vichy – Capital Soleil SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- Vichy- Capital Soleil Spray SPF 28 and Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 6% oxybenzone, 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]

Oily- Resistant O/R
Because most UV filters are oil soluble, many sunscreens are often emollient and greasy. It is a problem for high O/D score (above 35) types. Look for gel sunscreens with alcohol, which should be not a problem for you as a Resistant type or sunscreens with matyfing agents like silica. You can also decrease sunscreen oiliness by mixing and applying sunscreen together with OC Oil Control Gel by Ferndale Labs, available without prescription. If you decide that you cannot stand any sunscreen, at least use face powder with SPF.

Chemical/physical sunscreen for O/R

- AMBI – Even&Clear UV Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3.0% Homosalate 12.0%, Octisalate 5.0% Octocrylene 1.7%, Oxybenzone 3.0%] - good for ORP (less oily, resistant, pigmented) because of lightening ingredients
- Aveeno – Positively Radiant Daily Moisturizer SPF 30 (in contrast to SPF 15 version this new one is photostable) [Active ingredients: Avobenzone 3%; Homosalate 12%; Octisalate 5%; Octocrylene 1.7%; Oxybenzone 3%]- good for ORP (less oily, resistant, pigmented) because of lightening ingredients
- Aveeno – Sunblock Lotion SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.35% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 5% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Aveeno – Sunblock Lotion SPF 45 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.4% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 6% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Clinique – Derma White Super City Block SPF 40 [Active ingredients: 11.6% ZnO and 7.3% TiO2]
- Coppertone – Oil Free Faces SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 2% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 5% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 4.5% Oxybenzone, 8% homosalate]
- Coppertone –Sunblock Gel SPF 30 and Sport sunblock Gel SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 2% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 7.5% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 4% Oxybenzone] (lots of alcohol!) - good for very oily and resistant type
- DHC – White Sunscreen SPF 25 [Active ingredients: 10% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Epicuren - Zinc Block SPF 20 [Active ingredients: 19% ZnO]
- Fancl - Sunguard SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 14% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Jane Iredale- Pure Pressed Powder SPF 18 [Active ingredients: 3% ZnO, 14% TiO2]
- Kiehl’s – Vital Sun Lotion and Spray SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]
- La Roche-Posay – Anthelios SX [Active ingredients: 2% ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), 2% Avobenzone, 10% octocrylene]
- Neutrogena – Fresh Cooling body Mist SPF 30 and SPF 45 [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.35% Octocrylene, 4% Octyl Salicylate, 5% Oxybenzone, 8% homosalate] (lots of alcohol!)
- Neutrogena – Healthy Defense Protective Powder SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 8.9 % TiO2]
- Neutrogena – Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 55 with Helioplex ( please note that SPF 30 and SPF 45 are not photostable) [Active ingredients: 3% Avobenzone (Parsol 1789), 2.8% Octocrylene, 5% Octyl Salicylate, 6% Oxybenzone, 10% homosalate]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 12% ZnO and 5% TiO2]
- Peter Thomas Roth - Ultra Lite Titanium Dioxide Sunblock SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 6.5% ZnO and 7.5% TiO2]
- Shiseido – Ultimate Protection Liquid Foundation SPF 42
- Shiseido – Ultimate Sun Protection Lotion SPF 55 [Active ingredients: 7.4% octinoxate, 13.9% ZnO]
- Shiseido – Ultimate Sun Protection Powder SPF 34 [Active ingredients: octinoxate, ZnO, TiO2]
- Topix – Glycolix Elite Sunscreen SPF 30 [Active ingredients: 17% ZnO]
- Vichy – Capital Soleil SPF 15 [Active ingredients: 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate, 10% octocrylene]

Since every person reacts different to particular sunscreen formula, you may have to try several of recommended products (chosen to minimize skin reaction) before you find the one which works for you.

1- Mills OH Jr, Kligman AM, Comedogenicity of sunscreens. Experimental observations in rabbits, Arch Dermatol 1982 Jun;118(6):417-9